If you are truly passionate about screen printing and it is an area you wish to become involved in then this may be just the course for you. Recently I posted a video which explained how to do your own screen printing, but I understand that using the equipment whilst struggling to follow a video on a nearby computer might be difficult!
If you wish to become familiar with the basics, expand upon your existing skills, discuss ideas with a professional or just meet like minded hobbyists then make sure you visit Farncombe Estate when they hold their screen printing course on the 3-5 October 2008.
Hosted by Alicia Merret, an award winning designer whose work has been displayed internationally, the course is aimed at beginners and will teach how to screen-print text on cotton fabrics using acrylic paints through special screens made from computer lettering and other sources of text. You will also get the chance to “experiment with ideas and designs, and start making textile pieces incorporating words and script, using fabric collage, fusing, and fabric piecing techniques”.
If you are planning to attend be sure to enquire as to availability, as no doubt places will be scarce! You must also remember that although screens, paints, printing tools and equipment will be provided you must bring your own fabrics to print on and some other items, a full list of which can be found Here.
Terms such as ‘Fair Trade’ and ‘Organic materials’ have been interchanged so much that many think they denote the same thing.
In this article the important differences between the two terms will be explained, dispelling the myths and confusions surrounding both Organic materials and Fair Trade principles.
Organic Cotton:
So what’s the problem with non-organic Tees?
Nowadays stringent laws are in place to prevent harmful pesticides from being utilised on crops intended for consumption, however no such laws apply to the crops that will be used within the clothing industry. Non-organic materials that are used to create shirts have an extremely negative environmental and social impact. Cotton, the predominant material used for shirts, is sprayed liberally with a concoction of pesticides that damage the surrounding area and can seep into nearby water networks and poison the wildlife that depend on it. It is a fact that more pesticides are used on cotton than any other major crop. These pesticides are often administered by poorly paid, ill-equipped, untrained local farmers who suffer to provide the cotton needed for clothing companies. Recent studies have shown that an exposure to pesticides can lead to Parkinsons – read more on the BBC website Here.
So how does Organic Cotton help the environment?
Cotton can be grown following strict ethical principles, which forbid the use of synthetic chemical pesticides, synthetic fertilisers and genetically modified organisms. In their place organic fertilisers (such as manure) are used, this has no effect on the cotton produced compared to most conventional cotton fibres, other than the fact that it is pesticide and guilt-free.
How can I tell if my Tee-shirt was made using Organic Cotton?
There are certain labels to look out for including Skal’s “EKO” certification, widely regarded as one of the most respected organic certification. A full list of organic clothing standards and their labels can be found Here.
So the organic label ensures that workers have been paid a fair price as well, right?
No it doesn’t. And this is a problem which the ‘Fair Trade Mark’ seeks to address.
Fair Trade Cotton:
Fairtrade is a worldwide movement which endeavours to provide producers in developing countries with a fair price for their work, acceptable living conditions and generally improve their state of living. There are no public regulations for fair trade and the movement is not formally unified, meaning that anybody can claim to be trading its products fairly.
So how can I recognise if the product has genuinely been produced under Fair Trade guidelines?
The Fairtrade mark for seed cotton was first launched in the UK in November 2005.
This mark ensures that cotton farmers and producers have received fair pay for their cotton. Fairtrade also ensures that farmers are safe from market price fluctuations, if there were a sudden drop in the world market price of cotton, farmers would still be entitled to the agreed amount. Fairtrade works hard to make sure that the community in these developing areas is also nurtured and looked after, setting aside a premium for community development projects, such as health centres.
Does this ‘Fairtrade mark’ cover manufacturing as well as farming?
Although the Fairtrade mark ensures that a shirt has been made with 100% fairly traded cotton this does not cover the processing and manufacture stages, only the farming. However processors and manufacturers are required to provide tangible evidence that certain minimum international legislation pertaining to labour rights are conformed to. This requirement is in place to guarantee that your Fairtrade shirt, in addition to using cotton produced by non-exploited farmers, has not been processed or manufactured in exploitative sweatshops or using child labour.
Why am I having difficulty in finding a shirt that is both Organic and uses Fairtrade cotton?
The fairtrade organisation endeavours to protect those in only the poorest and most needy of developing countries, such as Africa. The vast majority of organic cotton is grown in Turkey, which is not considered a developing country where farmers are under risk of exploitation. The only country where the fairtrade organisation works that currently produces organic cotton is India, therefore it is rare to find a certified organic shirt produced under the supervision of the Fairtrade organisation. However we here at polo-shirts.co.uk have endeavoured to provide you with an array of organic tees, one of which is certified as both Fairtrade and made using Eko-certified organic cotton.
So if I buy a shirt made using organic cotton the workers won’t have been paid a fair wage?
Not at all. The Fairtrade organisation endeavours to ensure that workers in developing countries are not exploited by following certain minimum international guidelines, many of which are kept to by countries growing organic cotton. However to be absolutely sure that your tee-shirt is made using organic cotton and is produced under fairtrade guidelines you will need to ensure that both marks are present, as in the Terreo Lotus Tee.
As you may know the EU-imposed quotas against the import of ten categories of clothing and textiles from China is set to be lifted towards the end of this year. Experts predict, however, that this will not lead to the free and equal trading that some may expect. Whilst the more extreme elements of the European industry are petitioning for the limit to be extended until 2008 to protect the domestic market a more lenient solution is expected to be proposed as the EU is reluctant to enforce more quotas. Although free trade with China is not seen as a realistic possibility just yet a more relaxed attitude may well be the first step towards it.
This attitude is expected to be reflected in the change to policy when the import quota is lifted, it is assumed to be replaced by the so-called ‘anti-dumping’ policy, which investigates and condemns the sale of goods below the domestic price or below the cost of manufacturing.
So what does this mean for the garment or textile importer interested in utilising the Chinese market, or indeed the European producer who wants protection? It is assumed by many that although the quotas will be lifted, what just-style.com describe as a “raft of other measures” will be implemented to protect the European manufacturer.
Good news for European textile and clothing manufacturers then, who will be protected from unfair trade practices. But those wanting hassle-free importing from China may have to wait a little longer.
The rate of technological advance means that new embroidery machine models are constantly being introduced to the market and the latest area of innovation seems to be among the single-headed embroidery machines, being manufactured with smaller dimensions yet packed with more technology. This type of machine is perfect for those needing a small-scale production line yet wanting a professional piece of kit. Here is a comparison between 5 of the most popular machines that you will no doubt be considering.
Brother:
Brother’s PR600II has many enticing features, chief among which is a dedicated attachment which allows you to embroider caps. However with only 6 needles, a relatively small 200×300mm embroidery field and being far less technically orientated this will no doubt be rejected by even small-time professionals. The PR600II is clearly aimed at the dedicated home user but these may be put off by the not inconsiderable price tag of £5,295, however this includes software, delivery, training and a 12 month warranty.
Happy:
The Happy 1 Head HCD 1501-40 at £7,995+VAT costs a similar amount to Brother’s machine. However despite its rather off-putting name this machine is a far more advanced piece, offering easy USB and Serial access points allowing the user to simply incorporate it into a pre-existing LAN network with no hassle or expensive specialist accessories. A large memory bank allows you to not only store designs but also the set-up information for each design, meaning that large and complicated designs need only be entered once and saved. With small enough dimensions to be tucked away into a corner, 15 needles, 1,200 stitches per minute, a 440×420mm field and delivery, software and installation included this is a powerful machine for a reasonable price making a great package for the small-time business or home enthusiast.
SWF:
Packed with thoughtful features such as directional LED’s which negate the need for bulky lights over the work area and the ability to enlarge or reduce your design, the SWF/E-U1501 is a viable alternative to the Happy and a machine to be seriously considered if you are beginning an embroidery business from scratch. It also has 15 needles, automatic trimming to ensure the neatest possible job and an automatic recovery system in the event of power failure. However this model is larger and bulkier than the Happy so if purchasing be sure to have measured out the necessary space. There is no listed price and you have to ask the manufacturers for a specific quote.
Baruden:
Their V Series C01 is the self-proclaimed “most powerful single head embroidery machine ever built”. Utilising the same welded frame construction and needle drive as their 12 head model the C01 can handle heavy jackets, canvas bags and horse blankets as well as t-shirts ensuring that stitching is both quiet and accurate even through the heavier garments. A colour LCD screen with easy-to-follow icons make this machine easy to use for amateurs and professionals alike, and the memory backup option makes sure that all logos can be saved so there will be no time-consuming re-entry of information. With its 15 needles operating at 1,000 stitches a minute this machine is as speedy as it is simple and its 450×520mm sewing field means that even the largest jackets can be handled.
Tajima:
The TEJTII-C series boasts “The ultimate value for the beginning embroidery professional” and it is hard to disagree. Offering almost everything the other models do including a cap embroider, high-speed yet quiet operation, 1,200 stitches per minute, a 640,000 stitch memory, thread trimming, power failure control measures and the ability to check whether a design will fit into the frame before you sew this machine packs an incredible amount into a small easy-to-install package.
It is important to remember before purchasing any machine to be sure to enquire as to which software will work best with it, the one provided by the company may not always be the one to get he best out of your machine.
Ethical clothing comes in many shapes and sizes, but confusingly there are also many regulating groups that ensure clothing is truly ethical. I spoke at length about the Fairtrade organisation and label in a recent blog article (link) but it is definitely worth expounding upon the admirable work by the people at the Worldwide Responsible Apparel Production (WRAP) who fulfil a slightly different role in the fight for ethical production standards.
WRAP is an independent group consisting of a board of directors containing experts in relevant fields such as human rights, corporate responsibility, and the rule of law and professional inspectors that monitor the 600+ participating factories. Their stated aim is to “substitute arbitrary, duplicative, and costly inspections with a uniform measure of legal, ethical, and humane manufacturing practices”.
The WRAP logo
WRAP is different in that, rather than an accreditation for a brand or company, it regulates specific factory conditions, ensuring that “manufacturers of Sewn Products will comply with laws and regulations in all locations where they conduct business”, will not use forced or child labour and “will provide a work environment free of harassment, abuse or corporal punishment in any form”. WRAP’s ultimate aim is for the adoption of consistent standards by all apparel manufacturers and the eradication of the duplication of monitoring to ensure that all apparel is manufactured in “lawful, humane and ethical conditions”.
I came across this video which shows how you can screenprint your very own t-shirt.
Although the guys add sound and light effects this is only really recommended for people who have some prior experience. If you are a beginner and you want to follow their lead then the latter stages can be easily ignored.
